Wednesday, October 26, 2011

Science of Big Waves Questions

Pre-viewing:

  1. Where do ocean waves come from? What gets them started?
       Waves are a form of energy which are started right in the middle of the oceans were the wind is strong.
  1. What do you think a surfer should know about waves before they try and ride a wave while surfing? 
         Big wave surfers should firstly understand and know the risk of the wave they are surfing. They should know how to handle themselves if they stack, when do launch themselves into a wave and when to pull out of a wave.

Question for the Video:


  1. Observe all the waves that you see and describe how they form and break. Use as many words found in the segment for you descriptions.
- Big waves only happen when conditions are right, waves begin at wave factory, gulf of alaska lights up novermebr, december, january. Low and High pressure close proximety and push against one another creating large waves. 3 things you need wind speed, fetch and duration. Waves at maverick can get as big as a four story building
  1. Describe how waves are formed, how they originate, and how they are measured?- Measured by Wave Height, period, wave length. Waves being built hundreds of miles away
  2. What is a maverick wave and what is special about the way it is formed?  Mavericks is a bunch of rocks on the floor, rocks direct the waves into one wave full of energy.
  3. How is energy stored and transferred during wave? Wave energy is stored concentrated wind and is transfered when the wave hits a sand bank or reef which slows down the base of the wave but the top continues causing the wave to form with the full force of energy coming down.
  4. List any kind of advice given by the surfers about how to survive these “big waves.” To respect the wave and know what to do if you stack

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