1) Waves created by wind, wind forms ripples which turns into wavelets and finally waves
2) Fetch is the distance wind travels over the ocean to form a wave
3) Waves in open ocean have a gradual slope making them suitable for body surfing where as waves closer into the shore hit the shallow sand banks which slows down the base of the wave and forms tubes for surfers to tube through.
Question 4)
Question 5)
6) Plunging waves break on moderately sloped waves, spilling waves break far from beach on a gentle slope making ideal for body surfing and surging waves - very steep beaches cause erosion
7) Wind Swell waves travel short distance before hitting land and ground swell is that waves travel longer distance before hitting waves.
No comments:
Post a Comment