7.4 Questions

1) Coastal Management is ideas and strategies which have been put in place to to preserve coastline.

2) Construction of protective barries & walls, Beach nourishment, coastal dune preservation

3) Construction of protective barriers:

- Advantages & Disadvantages: Restricts erosion, prevents coastal flooding - costs a lot, maintenance high, reflects wave energy back into ocean.

  Beach nourishment: '

- Advantages & Disadvatnages: Restores and widens beaches, erosion occurs no hazards under neath - beach nourishment erodes faster then normal sand, expensive and repeated often.

Coastal dune preservation

- Advantages & Disadvantages:  Limits coastal development, construct fences to stop pedestrians and viechles. Development on dunes can affect environment, putting up fences can change an animals daily habit

4) Effective coastal management schemes often involve a combination of management techniques so that the beach can be enjoyed by all. Strategies are also implemented to ensure the coastal management schemes are carried out. Government funding is crucial to the effectiveness of coastal management.

5)

Constructing a sea wall will copy the former entrance to the river mouth.

Sand Dune prevention - fences to restrict residents trampling on dunes


Beach Nourishment and sea walls- by dumping natural large rocks into water a safe swimming area can be created.

Sea Wall

Science of Big Waves Questions

Pre-viewing:

1. Where do ocean waves come from? What gets them started?

       Waves are a form of energy which are started right in the middle of the oceans were the wind is strong.

1. What do you think a surfer should know about waves before they try and ride a wave while surfing? 

         Big wave surfers should firstly understand and know the risk of the wave they are surfing. They should know how to handle themselves if they stack, when do launch themselves into a wave and when to pull out of a wave.

Question for the Video:

1. Observe all the waves that you see and describe how they form and break. Use as many words found in the segment for you descriptions.

- Big waves only happen when conditions are right, waves begin at wave factory, gulf of alaska lights up novermebr, december, january. Low and High pressure close proximety and push against one another creating large waves. 3 things you need wind speed, fetch and duration. Waves at maverick can get as big as a four story building

1. Describe how waves are formed, how they originate, and how they are measured?- Measured by Wave Height, period, wave length. Waves being built hundreds of miles away
2. What is a maverick wave and what is special about the way it is formed?  Mavericks is a bunch of rocks on the floor, rocks direct the waves into one wave full of energy.
3. How is energy stored and transferred during wave? Wave energy is stored concentrated wind and is transfered when the wave hits a sand bank or reef which slows down the base of the wave but the top continues causing the wave to form with the full force of energy coming down.
4. List any kind of advice given by the surfers about how to survive these “big waves.” To respect the wave and know what to do if you stack

7.2 Questions

1) Waves created by wind, wind forms ripples which turns into wavelets and finally waves

2) Fetch is the distance wind travels over the ocean to form a wave

3) Waves in open ocean have a gradual slope making them suitable for body surfing where as waves closer into the shore hit the shallow sand banks which slows down the base of the wave and forms tubes for surfers to tube through.

Question 4)

 Question 5)

6) Plunging waves break on moderately sloped waves, spilling waves break far from beach on a gentle slope making ideal for body surfing and surging waves - very steep beaches cause erosion

7) Wind Swell waves travel short distance before hitting land and ground swell is that waves travel longer distance before hitting waves.

7.1 Geographical Issues in the coastal environment

1) The settlement of the Australian population is mainly along the coastline which has impacts on the environment around it. Animals who breed in certain areas can no longer do so as urbanisation has occurred. Pollution of the water has meant some animals die.

2) Coastal Management strategies are important in the development of the coastline as it inputs restrictions to development along the coast. It may involve that you can't build anything with 50 meters of the sand or involve no development at all allowing the natural occurring cycles to continue unharmed.

3) 'Sea Change' refers to the transition of city people moving to the coast for a relaxed lifestyle

4) One government response to sea change has involved a population cap on how many people are allowed to build or develop in a coastal region.

5) Pollution has affected the coastal environment. By having storm waters drains which empty into the ocean they often carry with them rubbish and unnecessary minerals which pollute the water.

    Population Growth has affected the coastal environment by the population becoming more and more built near the coastline. This has resulted in some natural cycles being disturbed.

Introduced Plants affects the coastal environment as they can choke, hold or kill off native wildlife or choke native plants.

Tourism and Recreational Pressures have affected the coastal environment. By having interesting and fun actives near the coast it does provide a profit for the community however they impact the local enviroment. AN activity such as Four Wheel Driving creates pressure on the local community however if not managed

6) Geographers collect data which is essential  to creating management plans. Secondly, geographers understand the local environment and know what is supposed to be there and what is not to be there.

Banzai Pipeline

BANZAI PIPELINE

Pipeline is known to many as one of the most well known areas to surf big waves. All throughout the year competitions are held to see who can ride and survive this wave with the professionals tackling the rough surf during the winter period.


Pipeline has crowned champions and broken boards since the sixties. 

• Pipeline is rough and full of power for a number of reasons. Pipeline breaks over shallow water onto a lava reef which is full of holes that a board or body can be smashed into, it's extremely fast with a critical take off meaning that if your drop in is not perfect you can find yourself at the bottom of the wave with loads of energy about to come crashing down on you.

• The big waves which are normally associated with pipeline only occur during the Northern Hemisphere's winter, often tourists who visit Pipeline during the Northern Hemisphere summer are expecting to see 15-20 ft waves instead they see 1-2ft calm rolling waves. To really experience the wrath of Pipeline you need to visit during the colder months, October, November, December, January and February.

• On the rare perfect days when widely spaced west swells roll in and once groomed by light off-shore trade winds result in a surfer's paradise; a clean vertical drop into a wide open tube that over the reef and exhausts itself over Ehukai's soft sand.

• Three sections make up the infamous Pipeline reef system, all of which play a role in the many personalities associated with Pipeline. The 1st reef is the launching pad for surfing's most hair raising moments. The second and third reefs act more as indicators of major approaching swells for surfers trying to get in before the wave wave jacks on the first reef.

Banzai Pipeline has become famous due to large and terrifying waves which hit the North Shore of Ohau during the winter season. The Pipeline waves have created champions and defeated champions, when riding the big waves at Pipeline you are tempting death and if you succeed in surviving you have cheated death.